If you're considering buying a sidevalve, here are a few pointers on what to look for.
On pre-100E 'upright' models the chassis itself requires checking for rust, particularly where it is raised above the back axle. On body panels the worst damage is likely to be all around the bottom edge: check the wings and doors, the inner edges of the wings where they meet the bodywork, the section below the spare wheel carrier or bootlid and the bootlid itself if a booted model. The cars are simple bolt-together affairs and are relatively easy to work on.
Many first-time buyers nowadays are unlikely to be familiar with pre-war mechanics and from a safety aspect, particular care should be taken when examining the condition of brake rods. In good condition and properly set up the mechanical braking system will be quite adequate. Whilst underneath, examine all the grease points for signs of regular lubrication.
The spiral bevel differentials can sometimes be troublesome, so check for noise on the move. Noises from the gearbox are less serious and are more likely to be a nuisance than a hindrance, but make sure that the car does not jump out of gear.
Many sidevalve engines were not fitted with water pumps and oil filters, and adjusting the valve clearances involves grinding either the valve head or stem until the gap is correct. At tickover the engine should be almost silent. Potentially expensive repairs are indicated if there is a low rumbling with signs of heavy oil consumption, as the big ends are white-metalled; however, a generally oily smell within the car (particularly when accelerating uphill) is more likely to be down to breathing difficulties.
The same running gear troublespots apply to 100E models, although the engine itself does have a water pump, oil filter and adjustable valve clearances. The brakes are a conventional hydraulic arrangement.
The 100E was overengineered to an amazing extent by later standards and this, combined with a decent grade of steel, gave it a better survival rate than later Fords, such as the 105E Anglia. The massive bulkhead/suspension turret structure demonstrates this, but if rust should attack here repairs could prove prohibitively expensive. Underneath, the box sections - particularly around the rear spring shackles - are the critical areas, but most other rust traps are largely cosmetic.
If you're attracted by the 100E but concerned about performance, you might opt for the 107E Prefect. Its OHV engine and four-speed gearbox give it an edge in acceleration, the hypoid rear axle is reliable, and it will cruise all day at a steady 65 mph.
Parts specialists are few and far between. Despite this, most owners have relatively few problems keeping their cars on the road as Ford applied a mix-and-match policy to its components. The 100E is reasonably well catered for sharing, for example, brake parts with Fiestas. Trim and body panels are more of a problem, although remanufactured 100E door skins and wings are now commercially available.